Part 3 - Chinese Turkestan
At the time of these events, far western China was
shown as a large blank spot on both British and Russian
maps. The main oasis towns of Kashgar (now Kashi) and
Yarkand were only vaguely and approximately indicated. Cut
off from the rest of Asia by the largest, highest mountain ranges
in the world, it was separated from China by the fearsome and
deadly Takla Makan desert to the east and the equally forbidden
and unknown Tibetan plateau to the south. With the possible
exception of Antarctica, it was the least known place on earth.
Even the South Polar regions were being explored faster. Centuries
earlier, the flourishing Silk Road had crisscrossed the area,
bringing with it literature, science, religion, trade and
peoples from far and wide. But the silk route had fallen by the
mid 1500s, thanks to Columbus and his brethren. The bustling
oasis towns had fallen into disrepair, and most had long ago been
swallowed up by the desert sands.
The Takla Makan desert had terrified travelers for centuries.
Bones of countless pilgrims, soldiers and merchants lay bleaching
in the sun, or more probably, covered by the relentless sandstorms
the plagued the region. For many years, westerners were told
that In the local Uighur dialect, the name
means "Go in and you won't come out".
Nearly two-thirds the size of the Sahara, it differs wildly from
the African giant. The Takla Makan is more susceptible to vicious
sandstorms that can last for weeks, blowing black sand into every
tiny crevice and crack, blinding man and animal alike. There is
far less underground water, and the temperatures vary over a wider
range. It's not uncommon for daytime temperatures to reach 110° F, and drop to the low teen's by midnight. The Chinese do
their atomic testing there now, and some wags have suggested that
if anything, nuclear fallout can only improve the place.
Long a part of the Chinese empire, but only nominally
subservient, the Muslim population had almost nothing in common
with their Manchu masters in Peking, and much more in common with
their brothers in Bokhara, Samarkand and Khiva, on the other side
of the Pamirs. A bloody Muslim revolt had in fact broken out in
the 1860s. Chinese cities were burned to the ground and their Han
inhabitants massacred. The revolt spread quickly from east to
west, and within weeks nearly all of Chinese Turkestan was ablaze.
A local revolutionary came to dominate the scene, claiming descent
from the almost holy Tamerlane himself. Yakub Beg was the veteran
of years of fighting against the Russians, and had no less than
six battle wounds to prove it. In the employ of Kashgar's
exiled Muslim ruler, the two men hoped to drive out the Chinese
forever, the latter hoping to regain his throne.
In 1865, they found Kashgar in turmoil, with rival factions
fighting amongst themselves and the Chinese. The city had been at
war with itself for almost three years nonstop. Tribe fought
tribe, and banded together only to kill the Chinese. (Ed. Note:
Why does this sound so familiar?) Within two years,
thanks to his charismatic leadership and ruthless military
tactics, picked up from his European enemies, Yakub Beg had
managed to murder or drive out all his Muslim rivals, including
the erstwhile king, and wrest
Kashgar and Yarkand from their Chinese governors. It is said the
two Chinese preferred to blow themselves up with barrels of
gunpowder rather than surrender, and a colorful, if horrifying
story reports that Kashgar's defenders had cannibalized their own
women and children before surrendering, having already consumed
every four legged beast in the town, including rats and
cats. Yakub Beg declared himself King of Kashgaria, and
before long his rule extended eastward to the far edges of the
Takla Makan, Urumchi, and theTurfan area. However, as is so
often the case, the natives merely exchanged one type of tyrant
with another - Yakub Beg's army continued to plunder, massacre and
terrorize the local inhabitants.
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Shaw's caravan
arrived in Yarkand in December of 1868, and to his major
annoyance, Hayward showed up a few weeks later. Claiming to
be a part of Shaw's tea-trading group, Hayward had sweet talked
his way past innumerable border guards, army patrols and local
wallahs. Studiously avoiding public contact, the two men
kept a close watch on each other, and the local officials
kept an eye on both of them. FInally permission arrived from Yakub
Beg in Kashgar, and eight days later, Shaw became the first
Englishman ever to enter the town, Hayward having been left
behind in Yarkand. His entrance into the mud-walled city
must have been something. The inhabitants had no concept of the
British Empire - they evidently thought of the English as vassals
of the neighboring Maharajah of Kashmir, an idea probably
encouraged, if not developed, by the Russians to the north. Shaw
explained the British situation and tried to educate the
illiterate bandit king in the ways of the English. Received
graciously by Yakub Beg, Shaw explained his business, left gifts
and trinkets, and awaited the return call for another meeting.
Weeks passed. Not allowed to leave his house, much less the
city itself, Shaw must have harkened back to the unfortunate
Stoddart & Connelly, their deaths still very much on
everyone's mind. In a few weeks, he was joined by Hayward, who
merely exchanged house arrest in Yarkand for house arrest in
Kashgar. Both men were well treated and afforded everything they
asked for, but were kept completely isolated and guarded day and
night.
One very curious event did
occur, when Shaw was smuggled a note, written in English, from a
man identifying himself only as "Mirza", who claimed to
have been sent to Kashgar from India to conduct a clandestine
survey, and to fix the exact position of Kashgar and Yarkand. To
do this, he needed to know the exact date, and also to borrow
Shaw's watch, because there were none to be found in the town.
Shaw feared a trick from Yakub Beg and declined to participate in
the highly dangerous and sensitive dealings, not finding
out until later the the request was completely genuine, and that
he'd been contacted by one of the most famous Pundits of them
all. Indian Muslims recruited to spy, survey and sniff around
the Pundits were the brainchild of an Indian Army officer.
Risking their lives with every step, the pundits walked all over
Central Asia ,measuring their steps, and laying out the
distances and terrain between towns and villages all over the
map..
In any case, after several months of frustrating
denial and detainment, both Shaw and Hayward were released and
accompanied back to Ladakh.
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Next - North from Gilgit, and Death in
the Morning
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